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How to change a timing belt for Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda, Seat 1.9 TDI diesel engine!

Some people have argued till they are blue in the face that "mark and pray" was the easiest
way to change one of these belt, and it has been proven that this belt can be changed in under 2 hours using the full factory method as demonstrated here in this

How to change a timing belt for Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda, Seat 1.9 TDI diesel engine!
The procedure utilizes all the factory tools and processes.

The reason or going to the extreme of utilizing all the tools is the elimination of all possibilities of making a $2500.00+ mistake and destroying the head.

You do not need many tools to complete this job.

What you do need is a thorough understanding of the procedure and what you are about to accomplish. When changing a timing belt, you are doing more than just replacing an old belt.What you are doing, whether performing a 40K on the auto or 60K on a manual, is inspecting the entire engine area that has been covered up since the engine was new or since the last belt change.

The second most important thing this procedure accomplishes is it totally resets ALL timing settings on the engine and restores them back to factory new settings. While on the topic of timing, we need to understand that there are three types of timing involved here:

1.The first and most overlooked type of timing is the cam and crank timing.This keeps the cam spinning in perfect time allowing the engine to produce great low-end power as well as allowing the engine to rev to it's full redline of 5100 rpm.

2.The second type of timing is "basic" injection timing. I concocted the word "basic" timing because it is used to initially set and assure that the engine will start.This is accomplished by inserting the injection pump lock pin: positioning the pump shaft in relation to cam and crank timing in such a way that injection will occur within the ignition window.

3. Once the cam & crank timing have been set and the Injection pump is positioned, you will need to adjust the injection timing utilizing the Vag-Com
. (www.ross-tech.com) If you do not have this, then get it before attempting to perform this procedure.

This leads me to my next point: tools. Everybody wants to know where to get them and how much they cost. The simple fact is they are not cheap, but neither is your engine. I use the factory tools that I got from www.zelenda.com.They sell all the tools you need for the job and they are the same tools the factory used to assemble your beloved engine so again it's your engine and your money.

CRC (camshaft revolution check)

The timing belt replacement procedure mandates that you MANUALLY rotate the eng/crank two full clockwise rotations PRIOR to starting the engine
.

If you do this step...This prevents you from starting the engine with the static timing out of alignment. If you have the static timing out of wack at this step... you'll feel it... the engine will not rotate through. If you did everything correctly...then the only resistance you'll feel as you rotate the engine manually will be the normal compression.

Remove locking tools and rotate crankshaft forward two full rotations by hand, then check that the locking tools can be re-inserted with the flywheel mark is at the correct TDC position. Correctly starting the engine When you have successfully completed the CRC (camshaft revolution check) you are ready to bump the motor.With somebody in the car you are going to bump the engine using the starter.

The reason is this will get the new timing belt properly centered on the pulleys and allow the tensioner to take up any slack in the timing belt. Try not to let the engine start and bump the engine as many times as required (3-4 times) until the belt stops moving and is centered on the "CAMSHAFT" pulley. The injection pump will be somewhat off center that's totally normal.

You just want to make sure that the belt is not riding off the injection pump pulley. If it is, you will need to have the bracket either replaced or reshimmed. Now that you have bumped the motor, check once more that every every intake port is clear of any obstructions and start the motor. It should start immediately and run normally. If not, recheck all timing marks as you missed something.

When the engine starts shut it off to prevent oil from going everywhere Closing up When your closing every thing up, here are a few things to remember: · Timing belt covers: install the lower cover first, then the top cover, then the engine mount. · When installing the pendulum mount, install the steel alignment bracket first then install the big mounting bolts. Use blue locktite on the 4 harmonic dampener bolts

Read free how to change the timing belt of the 1.9 TDI engine HERE!

Serpentine belt (with AC) 038 903 137 J Timing belt (old style) 038 109 119 D Timing belt (new style) 038 109 119 M Tensioner (old - manual) 038 109 243 G Tensioner (old - automatic) 038 109 243 H Tensioner (new - all) 038 109 243 N Camshaft seal (old) 028 103 085 Camshaft seal (new) 038 103 085 C Vacuum pump seal 038 145 345 Valve cover bolt (in case any strip-7 total) N 101 725 01 Vibration damper bolt (in case any strip-4 total) N 903 396 01 Injection pump sprocket bolts (non-stretch) N 903 285 04 Engine mount to body bolt (2 total) N 905 906 02 Engine mount to engine bracket (2 total) N 102 096 03 Engine bracket bolt (2 short ones) N 907 124 01 Engine bracket bolt (long one) N 102 043 04 Large idler roller 038 109 244 H Large idler roller bolt N 905 969 02 Small roller top 058 109 244 Small roller bottom 038 109 244 E Water pump 038 121 011 A Camshaft sprocket 038 109 111 A Camshaft 038 109 101 K Oil cap seal 06A 103 483 D Top cover black cap (2 for NB, 3 for others) 038 103 937 Top cover nut (2 for NB, 3 for others) N 901 326 03 Top cover grommet (2 for NB, 3 for others) 038 103 638 A Top cover stud (2 for NB, 3 for others) 028 103 665






Author: AL
Source: Autolaetst & TDI Club

change, timing, belt, Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda, Seat, diesel, engine